Sunday 14 December 2008

My First 30 years -- A Timeline

Phew...(or should I say argh....!!!) that I'm hitting 30!!! 30 years past like that...can't imagine. So what have I really done for the past 30 years??? As a history buff, I suddenly have the urge/the need/the...whatever to chronicle my achievements, failure, happiness, disappointment etc. etc., especially since I don't keep a diary and I need something to keep for memory. However, writing a memoir probably will take up a few vols. of encyclopedia (or rather nothing too dramatic to write about). In the end, I decide to keep it short and sweet. And so the timeline...


THE BLUR BLUR YEARS (1978-1984)
(so named because I've scant memory of that era)


1978: Scene - KK Hospital. Me - popping out of my mother's womb. According to 老妈's testimony, it seems that I refused to pop out, so the doc had to use a clamp to pull me out. 老妈was 36 yrs old then and 8 yrs since the birth of my brother. Quite hard on her. No wonder birthday is also call 母难日(Day of a Mother's Ordeal) in Chinese.


1979-84: Dun really remember what I've done, but some bits and pieces here:

  • Squeezing in a 2-room flat with my parents, elder brother and sister, my aunt and grandmother.

  • Spent half the day at my parents' shop as they are too busy with their work. Since then, I've became famous as the "ah boy" of Woodlands central... Always eat at that wanton mee and yong tau foo stall at the hawker centre... It's a tough journey to the central at the beginning when there's no bus...that is until Transitlink bus emerged... Remember Mum used to put me to sleep in a cradle (we always call it sarong) until I've grown too heavy and the coil finally gave way...but somehow I survived the fall.

  • Tried to play a joke on my brother by locking the door of our room, but ends up locking myself up. Thanks to a neighbour who managed to use a bamboo pole (those type used for hanging clothes) to unlock that hateful lock.

  • Always suffered from constipation (if there's any, they always looks like chocolate chips). Dad finally found the ultimate solution -- date juice (枣汁)! Yucks! Can't imagine I've been living on this for most of my childhood.

  • Seems to have visited Clifford Pier (now defunct, another memory gone) and the Merlion (now relocated).

  • The most horrifying secret: Mum testified that I was dressed in girl's clothing when I was 2-3 yrs old...AHHHH!!! Luckily I didn't turn into an "ah agua".

  • Was a cry baby at kindergarden. Dun do anything, just cry whole day in class. A certain 周老师was so frustrated that she left. Replaced by a 叶老师. She seems fierce, so I better be guai.

  • Some of my happiest moment: playing 飞机棋with my siblings...just that simple.

PRIMARY SCHOOL (1985-1990)


1985:
  • First day at Fuchun Primary School. We were the very 1st batch and the uniform was not ready. I ended up wearing my home clothes. Dad was my chauffeur in his scooter...and had been so for the next 6 years. Always very kiasu and carried all the textbooks in my bag (strangely, I didn't bother about my timetable at all). Still remember that CDIS textbooks and workbooks with that "students walking" picture on their covers and that 2 cartoon characters Mr Yakki and Mr Wallie -- they certainly brought some vibrancy to my learning experience.

  • Also the year of 《雾锁南洋》-- remember my bro (who was then studying in Chinese High) always like to sing its theme song: “问世间有多少悲欢离合..."

  • Moved from the old 2-room flat into the new 4-room flat across the street...and remain since then.

1986:

  • Scored quite well in primary 1 and so got into A class in pri 2.

  • Won the 1st prize in the Vitasoy "Master of the Universe" luck draw -- a Castle Grayskull game set. That day is one of my happiest moment in my primary school day.

1987:

  • My body size suddenly balloned around this age. My aunt started calling me "ah fat".

  • Likes to hang around with my sis and her friend. Always brought me to visit ulu ulu places in ruins such as those demolished houses in Sembawang and Pulau Ubin. Perhaps this laid the basis for me growing a liking to retro stuff?

  • Visit my bro at Tekong during his BMT. The training was really tough then -- my bro had grown thinner. Start to worry about NS in future after the visit.

  • First exposure to Science as a subject. Felt real fun doing experiments, especially growing green beans with wet cotton wool.

1988:

  • Results falling. Down grade from C class to D class in pri 4.

  • Sis left for Australia for her study. Saw her off at airport (also my first visit to Changi Airport). Felt lonely without her around. She was the one who brought me to interesting places (such as Bras Brasah and the World Book Fair at World Trade Centre to buy books). She was also the one who bought me my favourite soft toy: a whale which I named 大嘴巴for its bloody big mouth.

  • Bro started to introduce me to 连环图(Chinese pictorial book), the earliest of which is 济公全传. It was during this time that many of the Chinese mythical characters I've read about in books started to appear in TV -- 孙悟空,钟馗,哪吒...

  • My cousin from Australia came to visit us. Thanks to them, I had the opportunity to visit many places of interest like Science Centre, Jurong Bird Park, Aquarium (formerly at Fort Canning, now defunct).

1989:

  • Results fell further. Down grade to H class in Pri 5.

1990:

  • The year of PSLE. Met a fierce teacher who really force me to buck up. My result rose to 2nd position in class. Due to this reason, I was one of those rewarded to view the Youth Day celebration at National Stadium (and the only visit I've paid to the now defunct stadium).

  • First time feeling so stress on the day PSLE result was announced. Not a bad result after all -- ended up in a neighbourhood secondary school -- Woodlands Secondary School.

  • Became fan of TMNT (stands for Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles). That advertisement in Straits Times showing four cutie turtles with their ninja weapons and their rat teacher living in sewer plus those slimy radioactive stuff that turns them into talking turtles really left an impression on me. I was fan of many other super heroes of the day -- Superman (that Superman fighting the villains in dark suit in Superman II remains a classic); Ghostbuster (really likes the way they send electric current to trap the ghost and suck them in a vacuum cleaner like machine); He-Man (Remember "by the power of Grayskull" ? I had one whole lot of his adventure in the Ladybird series children books).

  • Grew a liking to Bookworm series around this time. Even won a consolation prize in one of its lucky draw. Another of my favourite children classics is 《儿童乐园》. Miss that swordfighting-fantasy story of 画侠李子长 and that Doraemon alike character IQ蛋.

  • Began reading swordfighting novels (amazingly) after watching Tony Leung's version of 《倚天屠龙记》. Begged Dad to get me 《射雕英雄传》as the prize for my good exam result. Still too young to understand most of the content, I'd stop reading after this.

BYE CHILDHOOD, WELCOME TEEN YEARS (1991-1994)


1991:

  • First day in secondary school. A refreshing start with a) wearing a belt for the first time and b) having orientation for the first time.

  • First exposure to new subjects -- History and Geography. Started to grow a liking to history (and change my career aspiration forever).

  • Had an ECA for the first time by joining computer club. Quite an enjoyable experience playing around with that large size floppy disk and the now defunct WordPerfect (and some other programes with names that I can't remember).

  • Began engrossed in Chinese fantasy novels. As a result, my Chinese getting better, but English grade began its decline.

  • Felt the impact of a surge in male hormones when I started having pimples and ogling at 2 girls in class (but no further actions taken)

  • Thought I could score well in Arts since I like drawing, but ended up with a struggle to pass.
1992:

  • An unlucky year -- ganna chickpox (and had to spend endless of hours at home with nothing to do). Ended up watching Olympics (held @ Barcelona) at home.

1993:

  • Finally ended up in the Arts stream after the streaming exercise. Arts stream were condemned back then compared to the more elite Science stream. But I stood by my decision. History remains my favourite subject, but the teacher really sucks...just told us to underline, underline, underline...and it's history of Sotheast Asia and Singapore/Malaya (again? sian!). The real enemy was English Language and Literature, really a struggle. Wondered why no Chinese Literature was offered in school...I can certainly excel in the subject. But the Eng Lang and Lit teacher did made an effort in making the subject interesting, and gave us remedial lessons --even organised a camp for this.

  • Visited National Library for the first time when doing a school project. Little did I realise I would become its employee 10 yrs down the road.

1994:


  • The year of another major battle -- O levels. A very difficult year ahead, struggling with the various subjects (except of course Chinese). Remember the days doing that Technical folio, doing all that design drawings, struggling with the tools and materials to turn that concept into reality...Remember the days struggling to understand what that passage in comprehension was about, but ended up getting one "X" after another...Remember that moment of happiness after solving a difficult maths question. However, that aim remains -- the aim of getting into a JC.

TURNING POINT AND NEW CHALLENGES (1995-1997)


1995:

  • Spent my 1st 3 months at Jurong Institute bec my prelim grade is insufficient to get me into any of the JC -- even after appealing at Yishun JC. But the 1st 3 month remains an enjoyable experience and eventually change my mindset -- so what if I can't get into JC? I told myself I would need 3 yrs instead of 2 to build up my prowess to take on A level -- JI just provided me with the time and environment to do that. True enough, I failed my O level (due to failing English and Lit) and ended up in JI. However, this 2 subjects had evolved into A level GP and Eng Lit to continue to haunt me for the rest of my 3 yrs. Worse still, I had to retake O level Eng again and pass the subject...if not, I would be kicked out of JI!!!

  • I'm now in 95A, the one and only Arts class in JI, and spent the next 3 yrs in the same class. My classmates and teachers had since became another family to me.

  • Got to represent JI in NUS History Quiz -- though not winning, it's still my 1st achievement in JI.

1996:

  • My 2nd achievement in JI: awarded with 1st in Chinese on Speech Day.

  • My 3rd achievement in JI: rep JI in National Chinese Essay Writing Competition and won the consolation prize.

  • Another setback: retook O level English and failed again. My GP teacher was kind enough to sacrifice her time to give us extra lessons on this. I began to spent long hours reading Straits Times (this had since became my daily hobby) and Eng story books, taking notes of new phrases to improve my Eng.

  • My 5th achievement in JI: finally get to participate in school camp (I've missed the one in Pri 6 due to knee injury and opted out the one in Sec 3 -- still quite anti-social then)

  • Finally Woodlands is linked to the rest of Singapore by MRT. And finally I got more opportunities to take a ride by MRT from school to home.

1997:

  • My 6th achievement in JI: awarded for outstanding peformance in History.

  • My 7th achievement in JI: got a B4 for my O level Eng exam -- pass finally!!! Now ready for the battle for A level.

  • 23 Dec (a few days after Titanic went on screen): 1st day of my NS days. The moment of getting my "Alibaba" bag and all that parang parang; sleeping with a bunch of total strangers from all walks of life in the same bunk remains unforgettable.

  • 24 Dec: this day is my first book out day -- surprisingly -- just because it's Christmas eve. I'd became the envy of many for being enlisted during festive seasons.

NS DAYS (1998 - 2000)


1998:


  • BMT: seriously I don't considered that tough because I was sick quite a number of times... and managed to get excuses a lot of time (incl. one @ sick bay a day after field camp) -- really "chao geng" ah!

  • Me and my buddy posted to 21SA. Voccation -- Mechanic. Responsibility -- fixed an amphibious armoured vehicle called...forget the name.

  • A level result announced. The result was what I expected: A,B,C. The greatest surprise came from GP - a B3. This not only guarantee me a place at NUS, I don't even need to take that English module (for those B4 and below)

  • Training to be a mechanic at OETI: That Malay stall selling Roti John and fried chicken wings remains the favourite civilian makan places in camp during NS days.

  • Horray! Ganna posted to GSMB (which is a better life than in 21SA). The camp is at Sungei Gedong, a ulu place in Lim Chu Kang, but quite near to my house.

  • A bunch of new birds joined our company. Some of which had became my close friends.

1999:

  • The whole world counting down on 31 Dec for the new millenium. Y2K bug was the catch-phrase of the day, but nothing of an IT catastrophe occured.

2000:


  • 22 Jun, the Year of the Dragon: ORD loh! Suddenly felt like a dragon after getting my pink IC. Finally got the opportunity to study again (more importantly, got the opportunity to see "cheo bu" again, after suffering in silence for that 2 and a 1/2 year).

  • Got that 2 major subjects I wanted: History and Chinese Studies. The time had arrived to compete with new and greater academic opponents.

The U (2000 - 2004)

2000:

  • First exam in U. First time writting long essay in Chinese for my Chinese Studies papers

2001:

  • Felt "bo liao" without an ECA, so finally decided to join Chinese Society and involved in organising for an activity camp.



2003:

  • Nearing the end of U days and my cap was below 3.8 -- most likely couldn't get into honours class. Ready for working life -- even got myself a handphone for the 1st time (it's a freebie from Marigold, but the costly part is a 2 year subscription from Starhub).

  • Surprise surprise. I actually found my name among those admitted into the Chinese Studies honours class. So the game continued, and it's here that the 5 of us from Brotherhood became best friends.

  • The bond as a class was revived over here -- previously it's just lectures and tutorials and off everyone gone. Held a class outing to Kukup in Dec.

  • First time writing a thesis. I overturned the suggested thesis topic from my supervisor and proposed a new topic I interested in: 唐代广州的海上贸易(Maritime Trade of Guangzhou during the Tang Dynasty). He seems worried, but I managed to convince him. I didn't realise then that my thesis play a part in influencing my career path.

THE WORKING LIFE (2004 - ?)

2004:


  • Graduated with 2nd class lower.

  • First interview: trying to pursue a career as a curator in ACM. Left disappointed -- a) there's no vaccancy at the moment; b) specialised knowledge in artefacts required; c) couldn't stay on as an intern either, the pay too low. The option: try another job

  • 2nd interview: MINDEF researcher-whose-job-scope-is-too-secretive-to-reveal. Need to take a test (MCQ and essay) to assess aptitude. It requires not only much analysis, but also taking the shortest possible time to provide the best solution. Friend from Brotherhood got the job (and still doing well), I ganna kicked out from this game.

  • 3rd interview: NLB. Was asked about my thesis and some knowledge on Chinese maritime history. The result: I got the job as researcher for ZHMA exhibition.

  • Start work: 12 Jul @ Marine Parade. First pay day: 12 Aug (The day Goh Chok Tong stepped down as PM. Coincidentally, he was also the MP of Marine Parade. More coincident - I was his tour guide when he visited the ZHMA exhibition)

  • 26 Dec: The day the tsunami hit much of the region (again coincidentally most were the places visited by ZH). New year celebration became a fund raising event at Marine Parade office.

2005:

  • Jan/Feb: Suffered from my worst fall ever crossing a huge drain while hiking at McRitchie. Leg swollen like pig trotter. As if it's not worse enough, it's occured near Chinese New Year...damned suay.

  • Apr: Became RO (for the 1st time) of 4 interns from Temasek Poly. Finally I had some subordinates to bully..heheh!

  • Jun: Office moved to new NL building

  • 8 Aug: worked till 11.30 pm to rush out the captions for ZHMA exhibition. Even then, I couldn't finish my work and had to bring back home to continue the next day (ie National Day). Tiring experience, but I derived the greatest job satisfaction from ZHMA project. It fulfilled my dream of becoming a curator.

  • Dec: Transfer to a new work environment @LKCRL

2006:

  • Travelled to Manila for conference. This was my 1st official trip overseas.

  • Jun: Ganna transfered again to involve in a new project -- 5 yrs to finish and this was the 1st year. 1st time involved in recruiting part timers and 1st time learned how to manage manpower resources.

  • Dec: A friend from Brotherhood joined me as a part timer in this project. 1st time being the RO of a close friend--real weird feeling.

2007:

  • This seems to be a daunting project -- sometimes really no idea what I'm doing. Should I leave for a better job?

  • 22-27 May: 1st time travelled with a friend to Vitenam on an OTOT (own time own target) basis (ie without following tour group). Truly a new interesting travel experience, doing our own planning and handling all the unexpected .

2008:

  • 8 Aug: Beijing Olympics. The opening ceremony was the most impressive I'd ever seen.

  • Nov: Set up my mind to go for my Msc next year (and to continue my career path as a librarian)

  • 10-12 Dec: 2nd time on Star Cruise, but tis time was to celebrate the 30th anniversary of my life. Whither should I sail to for my next 30 yrs?

Huh? Written so many already? Ok, that's it.

*Special thanks to my ex-classmates with the above class photos. Dun sue me for the copyrights hor!*


Sunday 9 November 2008

Ulu Ulu Singapore (2): The Monster Guns








Continue my exploration into another ulu part of S'pore. Still on the trail of Tan Shzr Ee Lost Roads, I visited the "monster guns" of Johore Battery. It's located somwhere near the old Changi Prison, opp the Changi Baptist Church, along an isolated road leading to some rehabiliation centre/Police K-9 unit/Selarang Camp(?) and some workshop (?, saw some Chinese foreign workers walking in). The guns (in reality only left with ONE gun and it's only a replica), to my disappointment, is not open for the public. It's fenced off with the gate locked (no idea for what reason and no one to turn to for enquiring either). There's a tunnel near the gun as well, also denied access to visitors (The book says there's a periscope which visitor can have a peep what's inside the tunnel. Now I can't even enter to peep!).

A litte history: The Johore Battery used to house 3 guns, defending the east coast of S'pore. They are really powerful guns (so claimed the Bri) that are capable of firing 15 inch shell at battleships 21 mile away. With their 16.5 m barrel, they are indeed monsters of their day, and only 7 in total existed within the British empire -- 2 in Dover @ England, the rest in S'pore, out of each 2 are in Bouna Vista. 2 of the Johore Battery guns not only could defend the sea from here, but also turned to fire at Johore Bahru. They do play some role in defending against Jap invasion, but unable to turn the tide of history. With the Jap winning the war, the Bri, as with all other defences under their care, destroyed the guns. As for the tunnel, it served as an ammunition store until ganna sealed up by the Bri in 1970s. It was re-discovered in 1991 and in 1992 the place was restored with the building of a replica of one of the guns and reopened to the public.

A small hut(?)/guard post (?) nearby contain plaques that chronicle the history of the battery. There's a TV in the hut, probably meant to show footages about the guns, but is not working. Wonder who is manning this place?

Since it's still early, I decided to pay a visit to the Changi Museum which chronicles the history of POWs during the Jap Occupation. It's just some simple displays, not as fanciful as those high tech exhibits in National Museum, but it brings out vividly the horrors and sorrows behind those walls. It's those bits and pieces of artefacts belonging to the POWs (including a book published for children during Christmas, a birthday card drawn by a child, a rope left with blood stain that could have seen numerous tortures of the POWs) that really left an impression on me. It's that sense of reality of life that comes out from artefacts and not mere CGI effect that truly brings out the essence of history. Perhaps that is also the attractiveness of a site museum. It may not have all the glamour and publicity a national museum possesses, but it certainly have a more humble nature - just tell the story of the site in the most simple and direct way.

As I walk out of the museum and into the blazing sun, I realise I'm back in Singapore again. That's really a strange feeling, as the museum reminds me more of a military museum I've visited in Darwin, Australia. It seems that Changi Museum remains a museum lying in a sleepy corner in Singapore visited mostly by foreign tourists, forgotten by most local Singaporeans. Meow! Is the cat at the entrance moaning the nameless souls that had been lost in the war and forgotten by history?

Old Woodlands Central

Pay a visit to the hawker centre @ old Woodlands central last Mon. Suddenly realise I've not eaten here for a long long time...since...can't really remember (that's really lost in history). This is the place where I spent my childhood. My parents are running a shop over there, so they brought me along as well, and this continue till pri 2. I didn't turn into an entrepreneur though, but became quite an artist. According to my mum's testimony, I'm so guai that I could just sat down at the shop drawing the whole day long...I just won't step out of the shop. Strangely, I didn't end up being an artist (Perhaps I'm not destined to be one after all. I began to abandon the habit of drawing when I entered secondary school and failed my art subject quite a number of times).

I'm quite a familiar face at the hawker centre. Most of the hawkers know me as that "ah boy". There's a few stalls I frequented - that wanton mee stall, that one selling chicken rice, that selling hor fun and that yong tau fu stall...can't really remember...are they still around? Yes, that 来兴wanton mee still there (I'm used to be quite fat and claimed that the credit should go to that wanton mee). Still remember seeing some actors in their Chinese swordfighting drama costume having lunch while I indulged in my wanton mee (SBC used to shot their period drama in the Woodlands park. The park is now foreign workers' haven...u can see them lying/loitering all around the park). The wanton mee lady won't recognise me by now... I've grown too tall and too old to be ah boy now...As for that yong tau foo, western food stall, they've gone extinct since...when?

Order a hor fun. Is this the same old stall which I had my hor fun when I was a kid? Can't remember...but the taste...it tastes familiar. Order an ice kachang...that stall looks familiar, I think I'd frequented that stall before... that ice kachang...it's still look the same, yes, I remember that pink-cum-yellow ice cone...it still looks so tall and delicious...


Remember that KFC? Amazingly it has survive till this day, though the inner furnishings have changed. Despite the rise and fall of a number of fast food restaurants over the years - A&W, Pizza Hut, and some other name-which-I-have-forgotten - KFC still reign supreme. Some of my happiest moment in my childhood day is to have a bite of that fried chicken (because mum always keep me away from all unhealthy stuff!). Life was so simple then...


Oh that cinema with that Shaw Brothers logo! It's no longer running any films (all cinemas are now moved to shopping centre), but that continue to serve as a reminder of that chapter in our nation culture history. Can't remember watching any films in there...I think there's one...so long long ago when I was just a kid who just want to grow up...who cares about all that minute details? All the sight... so familiar...yet so distant...

Monday 27 October 2008

Monkey business


Finally decide to explore that new Admiralty Park opp my house. Nothing much to see as it's quite a small area. Completed the whole journey in just 1 hr. The only highlight is the monkeys. Saw them digging the ground, probably lookin for some delicacies to eat. Visitors are not allowed to feed them the best delicacy (ie banana) though, or else risked ganna fined.


Actually thinkin of having my running practice over here, but the stony paths can be quite a daunting challenge. Nevertheless, still decide to take on this "run in the jungle" challenge some day (dun know why suddenly so kee siao).

Tanjong Katong Fort



Still continue my venture into the unknown last Mon as part of my vacation plan. This time is East Coast -- no big deal actually, but I'm exploring Area A and B, those ulu part of East Coast without much human activities. In fact, that very end of Area A (probably also the very end of East Coast) really resemble the jungle of Sumatra (See below. Some where near the END is a tower like structure).


Stumble upon a signboard towards the END, pointing to Katong Park. It suddenly dawned on me that there's a forgotten fort down there being excavated some years ago (later I realised it's excavated in 2005 after going thro my newspaper clippings). There's an underpass linking East Coast to Katong Park, and then the next thing I know I found myself in that park. It's hardly a park really, looks more like a little playground for kids at one corner and a place to walk your dog at another corner, plus some ah pek loitering around at the benches. Is this the place I'm looking for? Looks like an ordinary little park (or some patches of grass) at the middle of some private residence. Then I notice a stone structure fenced off at one corner -- it looks like some longkang. But NO! It's a part of that forgotten British fort! (Seriously, no one would have notice that thing at all, espaecially there's water inside, a result of the rain earlier. It looks really like a longkang that needs to be fenced off). A signboard nearby clearly indicate this is the remain of Tanjong Katong Fort, built by the British in 1879 and abandoned in 1901. Excavation is conducted in 2004 and 2005. The stone structure uncovered here for public viewing is the south-east bastion of the fort. It says there's glass sherds embedded in the escarps to prevent intruder, but don't see any here. Only the pathetic sight of a fort.


Digging through my old newspaper clippings and here's the answer: the fort is excavated in 2005, but because no one has any plan on what to do with the site and so they decide to bury the rest of the structure again -- just like what the Bri do to the fort when they decide that this white elephant no longer has any uses (Initially they decide to use this as a defence against their potential Russian and French enemy, but later realise the threat is no longer there, and the fort is understaffed and too ulu -- they had bring in water and other neccessities from the city by boat. Finding it irritating, the Bri just dump it). Only the remains of the bastion is kept in place, the only reminder of that excavation (which probably is forgotten by itself). 3 years had passed, and it seems still no one have any idea what to do with that place...

PS: Enter this website for a detail account of the fort and its excavation

http://www.seaarchaeology.com/



Sunday 19 October 2008

Lighthouse



There's an exhibition going on at Vivocity on Singapore maritime history, held by MPA as part of Maritime Week. Today is the last day of the 3 days exhibition, so diehard fan of maritime history like me sure die die must take a look. It's just a simple exhibition, nothing fanciful, but nonetheless showcase some of the developments in navigational instruments past and present. Of particular interest is the models of lighthouse in Singapore, 2 of each is shown below:


The first one: Horsburgh Lighthouse, built in 1851 by John Turnbull Thomson at Pedra Branca (that tiny little rock/island which ICJ had announced that it is Singapore's property)


The second pic: A lesser known lighthouse at Pulau Pisang (literally banana island, as banana = pisang in Malay). However this lighthouse is an estangled kid -- that island belongs to Johore Sultanate, but the British signed a treaty with the sultan to built a lighthouse there in 1855, and so the running of the lighthouse is done by the British. This remains so after Singapore declared independence -- Malaysia still own Pulau Pisang, but the running of the lighthouse belongs to Singapore.


In a way, the 2 lighthouses are like 难兄难弟. The one at Pedra Branca guide the eastern entrance to Singapore Straits and the one at Pulau Pisang guiding the west, performing their role as silent guardians safegurading the busiest shipping lane in the world.


Another interesting discovery is there used to be a lighthouse at Fort Canning, but in 1958 that fellow had to made a move to Fullerton Building until it gone down in history. It is the only lighthouse on mainland Singapore, so it's role has to be continue. This mission is carried on by a condominium at Bedok which is selected to have a lighthouse installed on its head (a little strange thinking about it).


The lighthouse keeper's job is really simple, just make sure everything is workin (most of the job is already replaced by technology) and no one will bother you on that little island, plus all that scenic seaview. Really, I dun mind being one when retire...just to get out of that terrible warehouse and all that traumatising books!!!


Sunday 12 October 2008

Ulu Ulu S'pore - Bottle Tree Village

I've started takin leave on 6 Mon consecutively, begining last Mon (to make up time wasted at RT). I've decided to embark on my own adventure to explore some of the ulu ulu places in S'pore bec:
a) I've grown tired of all the crowd in train, on bus, at shopping malls. There's a urge to find a peaceful place that is less visited and remain less explored.

b) It's a way to pass time. Now reading is not the only way to gain knowledge (especially when I've the phobia of seeing tonnes and tonnes of book lying on my work desk everyday and especially lying around reading for a long time at home is bad for health). Take a walk and away from people might be a good way to exercise (w/o feeling too tiring) and feel less traumatised by all that retro books.

And so I start off with Sembawang Park, bec I feel I've not been there for a very long time, even though it's not that far from my home. I start off with the Admiralty House, a subject which I'm supposed to write for my work assignment, but I grew curious when I realise it's just a stone throw away from my house, lying on top a hill near Sembawang MRT station. It used to be the residence of the commander of the Far East Fleet under British colonial rule, but now turn into the Admiralty Country Club (and for this reason I was ganna stopped by the security who told me it's a student hostel???). Not far away is a Chinese restaurant龙凤饭店. Dun know what are their famous dishes, but the look of it is certainly for the rich and famous.

Admiralty House is situated at Old Nelson Road -- truly a well deserved name. Think of "Admiral" Nelson who defeated the French and remains the pride of Britain. Along the way to Sembawang Park is a cafe name after him--Nelson Cafe) . This area once house the Sembawang Naval Base, once the pride of the British Empire until its humiliating defeat by the Jap during WWII. Still on my trail in search of the lost naval base (part of which was destroyed by British themselves to prevent it from falling into the Jap's hands), I came to Sembawang Park. Beside the park is the Sembawang Shipyard, formerly the British naval base, now a dockyard for container ships.

Another mission I have in mind for this expedition is to locate the Bottle Tree Village, a seafood retaurant that is recommended in newspaper and on TV. Not sure about the quality of the food, but it's certainly unique that it planted bottle trees introduced from Australia outside its door and secondly, it is damn ulu. On the street directory, it is shown to be some distance away from Sembawang Park, at one corner near a place call Kampong Wak Hasan, but in reality there's no road connecting the seaside to that place. I decided to hum dum -- walk along the main road. To add to my woes there're some construction work going on, but I still press on, crossing the semi-detached houses along Andrew Ave and here I am on a road leading to a jungle which leads to nowhere. The sky is turning darker and gonna rain soon, adding a sense of mystery to the enchanted forest, but still I'm still seow enough to continue walking into that jungle -- let's explore this ulu place, I told myself. And so I continue walking and then I notice somthing -- lamp post with electric wiring on them!!! They are fossils in highly urbanised modern S'pore, but u sure to find this in ulu ulu places in S'pore. I bump into them when I was in NS, while running in Area D near Sungei Gedong Camp. This show it's really a ulu place, and add to that one dog, then follow by another start comin out and barking at me. They follow me for some distance, then stop. Heng ah! Seriously, I find them more terrifying than meeting a pontianak along the way as I ganna bitten by one of their cousin before during NS.


The first signboard that came to sight is pointing to some Malay village at Kampong Wak Hassan, which certainly is gone by now -- not a soul is around. (Later I discovered in Tan Shzr Ee Lost Roads that Kampong Wak Hassan was named after a policeman Hassin bin Ali and the village had moved due to the construction of the naval base). Further down is another strange sight -- a mosque standing alone in the jungle, probably what once remains of a thriving village. The mosque is known as Masjid Petempatan Melayu Sembawang in the street directory. It's architecture is unique of a kampong mosque without its onion shaped dome found in the more typical mosques in Singapore. But at least now I know I'm on the right track as I've seen the signboard pointing to my destination -- Bottle Tree Village.

The Bottle Tree Village is situated at the end of this ulu path I've taken, facing Selat Johor. I would say it's a nice quiet little corner for enjoying a nice quiet dinner by the seaside. But w/o a car, tis place is certainly quite eerie at night, especially if you want to bring your dream girl on a first date (unless, of course, u wanna scare her out of her wit and u wayang as a hero..heh..heh). Beside is a park connector that links to Yishun Ave 2. A nice place to pak toh, but now I have no time for this. Lightning flashes across the sky -- I have to leave tis place fast. Out of the enchanted forest I walked at a much faster pace, and before I knew it, I was out of that strange land and to the nearest bus stop. The sky finally open and start raining, but that my little adventure in there is something I've not experienced for sometime. I suddenly realise I was not that far from some of the last frontier in Singapore, and there's a sudden urge in me to visit all that ulu ulu locations-before they disappear forever. As the bus pass the shops and retaurants leading to this sleepy enclave, I bade farewell to them as civilisation (symbolised by that yellowish Sun Plaza) came into sight.

Flyer and lobster

Yesterday go makan with the 4 premium members of the Brotherhood again -- this time at Food Paradise, near S'pore Flyer. The 4 seow da bo want to take a ride at the flyer, but I refuse because:

1) I wouldn't spend $ on such thing in S'pore. I'd rather spend it overseas (yes, my GDP always flow overseas).

2) I'd rather bring my dream mei mei on such thing (you can call me no yiqi to my bro). But even then, I wouldn't try the Flyer -- I'd rather bring my mei mei to Mt Faber, spent a night out at Jewel Box and book the whole cable car to ourselves -- and still have a splendid view of Singapore harbour.

Anyway still meet Brotherhood at the restaurant and have a $57/person meal (! that's because we throw in all the lobster and crab) over there. Taste good, but expensive -- once a while ok, not for long term investment.

Took this pic of motor boat racing at Marina Bay. It's the time of Water Fest over there.


Sunday 20 July 2008

95A Reunion...amazingly after 10 years


10 yrs: =1/7 -1/9 of homo sapiens sapiens' lifespan. Think of all the changes...and despite all the changes. 1998: the year we got back to JI for our results (still remember the guys in their SAF/Police uniform with their botak heads, lucky for me, my BMT is over, so I can pop up in my civilian). That's the last we see of each other...except for Mr Ef****y, somehow I keep bumping into him -- at the 1/2 marathon (Ca***r was there too), in U (too bad he's also a history "siao" like me), and surprisingly after U in the zheng he exhibition area (so he's the researcher for the Malay manuscript). As for the rest, they seem to have vanished into thin air -- and that is despite the small land mass of Singapore. Back in 1998, internet is still in its infancy, hp is still not as popular (honestly, I have neither back then). 10 yrs later, internet is a norm and it's considered really sua ku without a hp in S'pore...and so we start discovering each other in that new stuff call Facebook...and thus our reunion in Vivo Earle Swensen. Perhaps that's the only change we should really be thankful for.

Changes seem inevitable -- all of us have our own career, some pursuing their further studies overseas (phd some more...cheers for JIians!), some getting married (those married are absent from the reunion). But what remains is the bond we share -- 3 yrs as classmate is no joke, that's the longest in my schooling history -- and all those jokes and laughter, they still remains as one of the most entertaining jokes. Yet memory is failing me, as the past 10 yrs had erased most of my memory. The reunion has bring back fond memories...and our youth...which we thought we might have lost (we're still monkeys to Mrs Durai, but I'm still remain "stable" to her, perhaps she still haven't discovered my dark side...heh!heh!). We talk about all the craziest thing we have experienced for that 3 yrs... xxx's relation with yyy and another zzz; how aaa always act in a certain way; the style of teaching of a certain Ms ggg and the other "Ms teapot"; that juicy news from Malacca; and of course Mr Ef****y's repetition of that fart (I think he seriously miss that methane cum onion smell). Seriously, I've been missing out quite a number of action back then, now I really regret it --- I really shouldn't be so guai.

Anyway, it's really an enjoyable night. Lookin forward to another reunion, especially with those absentees...can't wait to hear their side of the story...let's see who ganna suan next.

Saturday 26 April 2008

下江南(完结篇)



又一个新加坡?

来到上海有种回到新加坡的感觉—除了因为这里有地铁,有地铁站,一出门就可以轻易找到吃的—还因为这里有Raffles City!而这个Raffles City (那里被翻译成来福士城,你跟上海人说“莱佛士”,他们也搞不清楚他是谁,“来了就有福气”就容易理解多了)内的格局也和新加坡的original version 一样,里面也有BreadTalk(仍然是新加坡的价钱),Food Republic (不过在那里变成了“Mega Bite”,华文名还是老样子,叫大食代),连厕所也是新加坡式的(都用Toto 牌小便盆)。当然,这个Capital Land在上海的杰作也并非把整个新加坡都搬过去,里面不少商店都是迎合中国市场的,大食代卖的也都是中国食品(奇怪,就是没有新加坡食物)。

除了Raffles City,还碰到另一新加坡品牌—Cathay戏院。不知是否是当年Loke Wan Tho在上海建立的电影王国?也不知还有没有继续放映影片?


山外青山楼外楼

这不只是一首诗,杭州真的有间酒楼叫“楼外楼”,就在西湖之畔,孤山之中,成了名符其实的“山外青山楼外楼”。这么有意境,食物当然就贵些,只差没有做到“西湖歌舞几时休”,不然本公子和阿贤真的变成昏君奸臣了(搞不好都不想回来了)。楼外楼是以西湖醋鱼和宋嫂鱼羹著名(那里甚至还有个地方,把抓到的草鱼饿上几天,排除泥腥味,这样煮出来的鱼才够鲜嫩),但因为前晚已吃了宋嫂鱼羹,西湖醋鱼又太大条了,我和阿贤哪里吃得下,所以只叫了几样小菜尝尝—干炸响铃(其实就是炸dao gee,不过胜在炸得脆,酱汁够味),肉丝年糕(不要以为是过年那种黑黑甜甜的年糕,当地的年糕是白色的,而这道菜的年糕样子更像马铃薯),与及东坡酥(入口就化,味道极佳,苏东坡不知道和它有什么关系)--味道果然不错,不愧是杭州首屈一指的酒楼。

在状元楼倒是吃到了两道杭州名菜 – 宋嫂鱼羹和东坡肉。所谓的宋嫂鱼羹,相传是宋五嫂所创,因为宋高宗赵构(就是那个害死岳飞的狗皇帝)吃得过瘾而从此闻名。其实味道有点类似鱼翅,并不觉得特别。东坡肉其实就是肥猪肉,因为苏东坡的家人在煮红烧肉时不小心把红烧肉和绍兴酒参杂在一起,就这样弄出了一道名菜。状元楼的东坡肉确实煮得够味,咬下去有软软粘粘的感觉,又不会太腻。


上海则以南翔馒头店的汤包和小笼包吃得最过瘾。南翔馒头店分三层楼,一层比一层贵,要最吃好的一定要到最后一层,不然就算是白来了。那里最低消费是60元,如果不想花太多钱,可以像我们这样叫份套餐点心,也不过80元(S$16),很划算。最特别的还是那里的汤包。汤包上插了根straw,你需要先把包里的汤先吸完,才能继续吃里面的肉馅,感觉很新鲜。(有趣的是,straw上还插了根小旗子“小心烫口”,服务不错呀)



Sunday 20 April 2008

下江南(con't)


英雄_美女_疯和尚

济公,岳飞,武松,白蛇,法海,干将,莫邪…小时候所熟悉的众多历史/神话传说中的人物突然都近在眼前。在灵隐寺见到了清朝济公画像,他那似笑非笑,似哭非哭的有趣表情再次出现在面前。传说附近的飞来峰,正是当年济公为救村民的性命,背起了新娘子拔腿就跑,村民见疯和尚抢新娘,也跟着追了出村子。只听轰隆一声,村子竟被一块不知从何处来的山峰给压平了。村民这才知道是济公救了众人。在灵隐寺的售卖店见到一尊济公喝酒的木雕像,忍不住买了下来,算是对到灵隐寺一游的一点独特纪念。意外的是,在以“南屏晚钟”闻名的净慈寺又有缘再见这位游戏人间的高僧。还记得当年中央电视台拍摄的《济公》有一段火烧大碑楼的桥段,故事地点就在净慈寺。原来济公因在灵隐寺喝酒吃肉,方丈把他赶出寺。济公辗转来到净慈寺住下。一日济公酒醉告诉寺僧寺内将有火灾,寺僧不信。后果然净慈寺发生了大火。济公为重建净慈寺,施法自井内源源不断地变出木材,工匠见木材够了,喊了声停,从此井里就留下了一根木材。(那口井还在,木材却已经看不到了。)到了上海东方明珠又惊奇地见到了济公的踪迹—当然不是济公本人,而是明珠塔旁的熟食摊售卖的济公炒面和济公卷饼。这两道菜就这样成了我的晚餐。在济公卷饼上淋上老板特制的辣椒酱,老板说这是特辣的,还以为她吓唬人,没想到真的够power。不过大冷天吃点辣还是挺过瘾的。


西湖旁葬着两位著名的英雄,一个是被母亲刺上“精忠报国”的南宋抗金元帅岳飞,另一个是打老虎的北宋梁山“贼寇”武松。岳飞埋葬地现已成了岳王庙,供后人凭吊(刚好今年是岳飞诞辰905 周年纪念,来得正是时候)。陪伴着他的除了儿子岳云之墓,就是害死他的秦桧等“四大恶人”铜像(虽明文规定不准再对铜像吐口水,但还是有人对他们phui了一口痰,也不知道是真出于气愤,还是为了自己方便)。庙内著名的还有正殿的“还我河山”匾额(不知谁写的草书),与及老哥当年最喜欢唱的《满江红》词。武松,还以为他只不过是《水浒传》,《金瓶梅》里的虚构人物(对了,他大哥就是卖烧饼的武大郎,到杭州清河仿古街及宋城还可以见到有人扮成武大郎在卖烧饼,而他大嫂就是那本色情小说的女主角潘金莲),原来真有其人,还葬在西湖一隅(不过看来他可能没打过老虎)。



江南以美女著称,以前的ham sup皇帝就是喜欢到江南物色美女,把她们加入后宫的collection。我和阿贤这次下江南当然也要格外留意这里的美女。古代的美女早就不见了,只留下了几个坟墓(注:这里介绍的古代美女其实是名妓两名,阿贤顿时感到兴奋不已,硬剂进人家的香塚,与之合照)。一是南朝苏小小之墓,就在西湖边(现在这座是新建的),另一是唐代苏州的真娘墓,为守节而自尽,葬于虎丘。古代美女只能遥想,现代美女倒是能一窥一二,只不过现在的江南已容纳了各个省份的美女,道地的美女就难以分辨了。加上在全球化的冲击下,已难再见传统的小家碧玉,代之而起的是热裤丝袜的火辣meimei,但却也为这江南水乡增添了新的潮流气息。现代美女当然也不象西施那样躲在深山浣纱,而是集中在了shopping centre 。(如苏州观前街。杭州的白堤是看meimei的另一好去处)

周庄的沈万三与怪楼

听说周庄已变得很commercialised,挤满了旅客,本不该来的,不过因这是姓周的庄园(本公子也姓周,不知这庄园的开辟者周迪功与本公子有无血缘关系?),也为了看看中国古代的Bill Gates沈万三遗迹,最后还是决定来这里玩玩。(阿贤比较感兴趣的是怪楼,事实上怪楼的娱乐效果确实不错)


沈万三是元末明初的有钱佬,甚至比皇帝朱元璋还有钱,明朝南京城建城的费用一半就出自他手笔。朱元璋当然看了不爽,把他贬到云南。这家伙还真厉害,到了云南又利用当地的茶马古道继续捞了一笔,没因此而破产。有关他发财的经过,最普遍的传说是他得了一个聚宝盆,丢1毛进去可以变成1百万(简直是每个人的梦想,所以我也摸了一下)。实际上,他也是靠投资发展农业及各工商业领域等因素而发达的。(我最感兴趣的是他发展海上贸易的经过,他的贸易网甚至已达到东南亚一带。)周庄就是当年沈万三发展其业务的大本营,后来他的子孙后代仍在此定居,既是现在的沈厅。沈厅内还存有一尊沈万三的铜像。有趣的是,沈厅饭厅内还有一幅招财进宝画像,真的是连吃饭也不忘赚钱。现在周庄还有许多以沈万三命名的特产,如万三糕(买了绿豆口味的,不怎么好吃),与及万三蹄(猪脚是也,肥肉多多,汁够浓,挺好吃的,but warning: it's not for the health conscious)。



怪楼本来也只是一间普通民居,经改装后成了个游乐屋,让游客可以在里面变魔术 – 倒置的家具(其实不是本公子我会做stunt,只不过照片倒过来罢了),令人头晕的斜斜的房间,有头没身的“魔术”表演…最令人意外的是一间具有音响效果的房间。每人面对坐着,戴上耳机,仿佛就有无数的孤魂野鬼在你耳边以阴森诡异的语调和你说话,令人忍不住发毛,立体感极佳(以后拍鬼片可以以此做参考,保证效果令人耳目一新)。

博物馆和theme park

不管去哪里旅行,总是屁股痒一定要去看一下当地的博物馆。上海有着相当多的主题博物馆,我们选了上海博物馆和上海市历史陈列馆(在明珠塔底层)。

上海博物馆比较适合对古董文物有兴趣的人。馆内陈设以器物划分,分成铜器,瓷器,雕塑,钱币,玉器,画像等类,展示的都是历代的精品。作为中国著名的博物馆,上博确实是有一定分量的。难得的是,一些展厅还设置了一个角落,向公众展示铜器和瓷器是如何制造的,这在很多博物馆是不常见的。只可惜博物馆仍欠缺了说故事的技巧,不能把文物背后的历史背景更好的带出来。欠缺历史文物知识的人到这里参观可能会觉得乏味。

相比之下,上海历史陈列馆的呈现方法则较有趣,即使对中国历史一窍不通的人也能够很快地对上海的历史有个简单的概念,非常值得一看。这里以各类型的diorama带出上海的社会历史,既没有干巴巴地说明一些难懂的民族大义,也没有太多古旧的文物直直摆在那里,而是通过一个个人物蜡像,建筑,车辆等模型,述说着上海历史的转变,十里洋场的繁荣,甚至是隐藏其中的阴暗面也都一览无遗(图中的按摩女郎和嫖客?!既是一例)。年长的旅客会对这里的怀旧情怀所吸引,年青男女也会对旧上海的实景重建感到好玩。(本人觉得通过diorama呈现历史是很好的一种方式,可惜新加坡国家博物馆已不再以这种方式展示新加坡历史。)




杭州的宋城则是以theme park的形式重建南宋临安的市井繁荣,让游客尽兴之余,又可吸取一点有关宋朝的历史。城内一部分仿制了《清明上河图》的部分场景,搬出了图中的王员外府,还搞了个抛绣球活动让旅客参与。一些店铺还弄出一些宋朝常见的手工绝活,如编草鞋,织布,打铁,酿酒等,当场售卖,娱乐性丰富(我还屁股痒买了一小瓮“满江红”酒,到今天都还没有喝)。城内还有间剧院演出歌舞杂技表演,展现了杭州各历史时期的各个画面 -- 从原始时代,到宋朝宫廷,到岳飞抗击金朝的表演,是很不错的感官体验(价钱也合理,只需S$20,而且还意外得到前排座位)


Saturday 12 April 2008

下江南



火车...又见火车

这次下江南是自12年前踏上神州大地后又一次征程。不同的是,现已不再随旅行社赶鸭子,而是自顾自背包走自己想走的路。更难得的是,此次行程竟有机会不停地坐火车,而且还是3种不同类型的火车。一出上海浦东机场即转搭那300km/h的磁浮列车(还真快,没讲几句话就到站噜)。下了车,又见识了上海的地铁,从龙阳路站到上海南火车站。在柜台拿了张列车行程表,竟发现还有个“耀华路站”。(真“威水一下”,想不到在上海还有一条街以本公子名字命名)。此后驰骋上海,除了去几个个别的景点,基本上就靠地铁代步。比较新加坡地铁,可以发现几样异同:
· 上海地铁车厢较小,每节车厢只有十个座位,一些时候的车还少几节车厢,遇上繁忙时间就变得非常拥挤,其拥挤程度超过新加坡(第一天已见识了)。搭客争先恐后上车的情形,跟新加坡有时还有点相似。
· 都有个收费闸门,都要在上面tap your card,但在上海,你不只tap,还要push a bit, after pushing 不要以为门就开了,你还得记得去推动那旋转把手(第一天到的时候还觉得挺麻烦的)。
· 上海的地铁网络算得上相当四通八达,共分8条线,还在兴建第9条,比新加坡还多。人民广场站还有点象本地的City Hall, 连接三条线,又有地下商场衔接(just like another Citylink,吊诡的是,离这里不远也有Raffles City)。

从上海去苏杭,还是得靠火车,但不是那种慢吞吞的,而是180km/h的子弹火车“和谐号”(今天还在京津铁路推出时速350km的新列车)。去苏州半个钟头就到,去杭州也只是84min(比我到LSC上班还快,搞笑!)。方便是方便,但票要早买,不然到当天很可能被人抢光,到那里还要记得买本最新的列车表选择最佳时间上路。(Mr Eric 那本早过时噜!)

江南的交通还是挺方便的,价钱也合理。在苏州就试了坐巴士, 每个巴士站都有它独特的站名,车将到站时也会播报站名提醒搭客下车(有趣的是,车在拐弯时还提醒搭客扶稳,服务素质不错嘛)。每趟车一律1元(S$0.20,上班的shuttle bus 也是这个价,非常便宜)。的士的价格也不贵,去附近景点也15元左右,远一点半小时路程也不超过20元(S$3-4,在新加坡是找不到这种价钱的啦!唯一较贵的是在上海,一次从火车站去酒店竟达40元)。


过客匆匆

3月23日杭州过客青年旅社:抵达杭州后的歇脚处。这是我旅行第一次住进青年旅社,是一次不同的体验。坐落西子湖畔,离雷锋塔,净慈寺仅几步之遥,这里少了城市的喧嚣,没有酒店的豪华,却多了田野乡间的恬静,让人只想在这里静静地发呆(当然旅程的紧迫不容许我这么做,最终还是沦为“匆匆过客”)。旅社内空间虽小,但大厅内那别致的轮形桌子,桌上的四人打麻将的玩偶,古老的轿子,亲切友善的工作人员,房内的天窗设计(晚上透过这里看月亮还蛮有情调,阿贤却不以为然,认为白天的阳光会晒到他的屁股)……这中间的点点滴滴却为这小旅社增添了趣味感。(看来hostelworld 的好评不是乱盖的,确实值得推荐)。

3月25日:到了上海就碰到酒店问题了,原本在锦江之星上海外滩店订了房间,到了那里却说没有。愤极,怒极,唯有掏腰包花了200多元暂时住进附近的海螺假日酒店(之前这晚的费用已无端在银行户口扣除,真suay啊,看来今年真的会破财)。幸好隔天所订的房间已确认,接下来的住宿总算有着落。




人间_天堂_水乡_佛国

上有天堂,下有苏杭 – 江南的娟丽多彩正源于水,自古便是渔米之乡,水道纵横。从飞机望下上海景色,所见尽是波光粼粼,到了杭州又碰上了西湖这面美人镜子,苏州虎丘更是被水道环绕,剑池中所埋吴王三千剑的传说又为这水乡泽国增添了些许神秘……当然也不忘周庄的小桥流水。

漫游于杨柳依依的西湖湖畔,又或乘小舟泛游湖上,确实是不错的享受(可惜这次没带meimei来,不然效果会更好)。因时间的关系,对西湖这天然美女也只是匆匆一瞥,管它柳浪闻莺,断桥残雪等西湖十景也只一扫而过, 对眼前景致也不觉什么,大概来的不是时候。倒是雷锋夕照和南屏晚钟还有些看头。

雷锋夕照指得是日落雷锋塔的那一刹。游湖那天错过了坐船游三潭印月的机会(隔天总算补上),却有缘赶得上雷锋夕照,赶紧按下快门,把这落日的余晖与塔影捕捉住,不失为此行一大乐事。当初法海镇压白蛇的古老宝塔(实际上是五代吴越王钱俶为王妃所建,原名黄妃塔)已坍塌,现在这座是2002 重建,还被封为AAAAA级旅游景点。塔身是古代建筑模式,塔内却有电梯供游客登塔眺望(这是我有生以来第一次在古塔里坐电梯,感觉有点时空错乱,好像是卫斯理进入了带有先进电脑设备的金字塔一样)。塔基仍保留原塔的遗址, 而塔内则在不同的楼层展示塔的历史,包括钱俶建塔的经过,与及《白蛇传》故事的大型雕塑,四周还有touchscreen 介绍塔的种种故事。在塔顶还可眺望杭州夜景。可惜少了在塔基发掘出土的文物展览(这批文物也不知在哪里)。

南屏晚钟即净慈寺内的那口古钟,因同名歌曲而著名,但出于保护文物钟已不能再敲了。敲钟的任务就这样落到了寒山寺,还好那里还有一口现代铸的钟,给游客敲个够,感受一下“夜伴钟声到客船”的意境。寒山寺周围已发展为一旅游区,还真的搞了几个张继时代的“客船”,旁边搭建几个茅草屋,点上几盏灯,试图营造当年“江枫渔火对愁眠”的气氛。比较有意思的是景区内还有几个展厅介绍古代苏州的漕运史,别具特色。




有点可惜的是没有机会乘小船游江南水乡(anyway,乘小船还是跟meimei坐的好, 跟阿贤坐没什么意思),但在上海乘游轮大船夜游黄埔江,观赏外滩景致,遥想当年十里洋场的繁华,还是挺过瘾的。我们买了船顶的位子,可以到甲板走动,静静地观赏上海外滩夜景,可惜遇上冷天风大,刺骨寒风令人不舒服,不然的话凉风习习是很不错的。