Ulu Ulu S'pore - Bottle Tree Village

I've started takin leave on 6 Mon consecutively, begining last Mon (to make up time wasted at RT). I've decided to embark on my own adventure to explore some of the ulu ulu places in S'pore bec:

a) I've grown tired of all the crowd in train, on bus, at shopping malls. There's a urge to find a peaceful place that is less visited and remain less explored.

b) It's a way to pass time. Now reading is not the only way to gain knowledge (especially when I've the phobia of seeing tonnes and tonnes of book lying on my work desk everyday and especially lying around reading for a long time at home is bad for health). Take a walk and away from people might be a good way to exercise (w/o feeling too tiring) and feel less traumatised by all that retro books.

And so I start off with Sembawang Park, bec I feel I've not been there for a very long time, even though it's not that far from my home. I start off with the Admiralty House, a subject which I'm supposed to write for my work assignment, but I grew curious when I realise it's just a stone throw away from my house, lying on top a hill near Sembawang MRT station. It used to be the residence of the commander of the Far East Fleet under British colonial rule, but now turn into the Admiralty Country Club (and for this reason I was ganna stopped by the security who told me it's a student hostel???). Not far away is a Chinese restaurant龙凤饭店. Dun know what are their famous dishes, but the look of it is certainly for the rich and famous.

Admiralty House is situated at Old Nelson Road -- truly a well deserved name. Think of "Admiral" Nelson who defeated the French and remains the pride of Britain. Along the way to Sembawang Park is a cafe name after him--Nelson Cafe) . This area once house the Sembawang Naval Base, once the pride of the British Empire until its humiliating defeat by the Jap during WWII. Still on my trail in search of the lost naval base (part of which was destroyed by British themselves to prevent it from falling into the Jap's hands), I came to Sembawang Park. Beside the park is the Sembawang Shipyard, formerly the British naval base, now a dockyard for container ships.

Another mission I have in mind for this expedition is to locate the Bottle Tree Village, a seafood retaurant that is recommended in newspaper and on TV. Not sure about the quality of the food, but it's certainly unique that it planted bottle trees introduced from Australia outside its door and secondly, it is damn ulu. On the street directory, it is shown to be some distance away from Sembawang Park, at one corner near a place call Kampong Wak Hasan, but in reality there's no road connecting the seaside to that place. I decided to hum dum -- walk along the main road. To add to my woes there're some construction work going on, but I still press on, crossing the semi-detached houses along Andrew Ave and here I am on a road leading to a jungle which leads to nowhere. The sky is turning darker and gonna rain soon, adding a sense of mystery to the enchanted forest, but still I'm still seow enough to continue walking into that jungle -- let's explore this ulu place, I told myself. And so I continue walking and then I notice somthing -- lamp post with electric wiring on them!!! They are fossils in highly urbanised modern S'pore, but u sure to find this in ulu ulu places in S'pore. I bump into them when I was in NS, while running in Area D near Sungei Gedong Camp. This show it's really a ulu place, and add to that one dog, then follow by another start comin out and barking at me. They follow me for some distance, then stop. Heng ah! Seriously, I find them more terrifying than meeting a pontianak along the way as I ganna bitten by one of their cousin before during NS.

The first signboard that came to sight is pointing to some Malay village at Kampong Wak Hassan, which certainly is gone by now -- not a soul is around. (Later I discovered in Tan Shzr Ee Lost Roads that Kampong Wak Hassan was named after a policeman Hassin bin Ali and the village had moved due to the construction of the naval base). Further down is another strange sight -- a mosque standing alone in the jungle, probably what once remains of a thriving village. The mosque is known as Masjid Petempatan Melayu Sembawang in the street directory. It's architecture is unique of a kampong mosque without its onion shaped dome found in the more typical mosques in Singapore. But at least now I know I'm on the right track as I've seen the signboard pointing to my destination -- Bottle Tree Village.

The Bottle Tree Village is situated at the end of this ulu path I've taken, facing Selat Johor. I would say it's a nice quiet little corner for enjoying a nice quiet dinner by the seaside. But w/o a car, tis place is certainly quite eerie at night, especially if you want to bring your dream girl on a first date (unless, of course, u wanna scare her out of her wit and u wayang as a hero..heh..heh). Beside is a park connector that links to Yishun Ave 2. A nice place to pak toh, but now I have no time for this. Lightning flashes across the sky -- I have to leave tis place fast. Out of the enchanted forest I walked at a much faster pace, and before I knew it, I was out of that strange land and to the nearest bus stop. The sky finally open and start raining, but that my little adventure in there is something I've not experienced for sometime. I suddenly realise I was not that far from some of the last frontier in Singapore, and there's a sudden urge in me to visit all that ulu ulu locations-before they disappear forever. As the bus pass the shops and retaurants leading to this sleepy enclave, I bade farewell to them as civilisation (symbolised by that yellowish Sun Plaza) came into sight.

Flyer and lobster

Yesterday go makan with the 4 premium members of the Brotherhood again -- this time at Food Paradise, near S'pore Flyer. The 4 seow da bo want to take a ride at the flyer, but I refuse because:

1) I wouldn't spend $ on such thing in S'pore. I'd rather spend it overseas (yes, my GDP always flow overseas).

2) I'd rather bring my dream mei mei on such thing (you can call me no yiqi to my bro). But even then, I wouldn't try the Flyer -- I'd rather bring my mei mei to Mt Faber, spent a night out at Jewel Box and book the whole cable car to ourselves -- and still have a splendid view of Singapore harbour.

Anyway still meet Brotherhood at the restaurant and have a $57/person meal (! that's because we throw in all the lobster and crab) over there. Taste good, but expensive -- once a while ok, not for long term investment.

Took this pic of motor boat racing at Marina Bay. It's the time of Water Fest over there.

95A Reunion...amazingly after 10 years

10 yrs: =1/7 -1/9 of homo sapiens sapiens' lifespan. Think of all the changes...and despite all the changes. 1998: the year we got back to JI for our results (still remember the guys in their SAF/Police uniform with their botak heads, lucky for me, my BMT is over, so I can pop up in my civilian). That's the last we see of each other...except for Mr Ef****y, somehow I keep bumping into him -- at the 1/2 marathon (Ca***r was there too), in U (too bad he's also a history "siao" like me), and surprisingly after U in the zheng he exhibition area (so he's the researcher for the Malay manuscript). As for the rest, they seem to have vanished into thin air -- and that is despite the small land mass of Singapore. Back in 1998, internet is still in its infancy, hp is still not as popular (honestly, I have neither back then). 10 yrs later, internet is a norm and it's considered really sua ku without a hp in S'pore...and so we start discovering each other in that new stuff call Facebook...and thus our reunion in Vivo Earle Swensen. Perhaps that's the only change we should really be thankful for.

Changes seem inevitable -- all of us have our own career, some pursuing their further studies overseas (phd some more...cheers for JIians!), some getting married (those married are absent from the reunion). But what remains is the bond we share -- 3 yrs as classmate is no joke, that's the longest in my schooling history -- and all those jokes and laughter, they still remains as one of the most entertaining jokes. Yet memory is failing me, as the past 10 yrs had erased most of my memory. The reunion has bring back fond memories...and our youth...which we thought we might have lost (we're still monkeys to Mrs Durai, but I'm still remain "stable" to her, perhaps she still haven't discovered my dark side...heh!heh!). We talk about all the craziest thing we have experienced for that 3 yrs... xxx's relation with yyy and another zzz; how aaa always act in a certain way; the style of teaching of a certain Ms ggg and the other "Ms teapot"; that juicy news from Malacca; and of course Mr Ef****y's repetition of that fart (I think he seriously miss that methane cum onion smell). Seriously, I've been missing out quite a number of action back then, now I really regret it --- I really shouldn't be so guai.

Anyway, it's really an enjoyable night. Lookin forward to another reunion, especially with those absentees...can't wait to hear their side of the story...let's see who ganna suan next.

下江南（完结篇）

又一个新加坡？

来到上海有种回到新加坡的感觉—除了因为这里有地铁，有地铁站，一出门就可以轻易找到吃的—还因为这里有Raffles City！而这个Raffles City （那里被翻译成来福士城，你跟上海人说“莱佛士”，他们也搞不清楚他是谁，“来了就有福气”就容易理解多了）内的格局也和新加坡的original version 一样，里面也有BreadTalk（仍然是新加坡的价钱），Food Republic （不过在那里变成了“Mega Bite”，华文名还是老样子，叫大食代），连厕所也是新加坡式的（都用Toto 牌小便盆）。当然，这个Capital Land在上海的杰作也并非把整个新加坡都搬过去，里面不少商店都是迎合中国市场的，大食代卖的也都是中国食品（奇怪，就是没有新加坡食物）。

除了Raffles City，还碰到另一新加坡品牌—Cathay戏院。不知是否是当年Loke Wan Tho在上海建立的电影王国？也不知还有没有继续放映影片？

山外青山楼外楼

这不只是一首诗，杭州真的有间酒楼叫“楼外楼”，就在西湖之畔，孤山之中，成了名符其实的“山外青山楼外楼”。这么有意境，食物当然就贵些，只差没有做到“西湖歌舞几时休”，不然本公子和阿贤真的变成昏君奸臣了（搞不好都不想回来了）。楼外楼是以西湖醋鱼和宋嫂鱼羹著名（那里甚至还有个地方，把抓到的草鱼饿上几天，排除泥腥味，这样煮出来的鱼才够鲜嫩），但因为前晚已吃了宋嫂鱼羹，西湖醋鱼又太大条了，我和阿贤哪里吃得下，所以只叫了几样小菜尝尝—干炸响铃（其实就是炸dao gee，不过胜在炸得脆，酱汁够味），肉丝年糕（不要以为是过年那种黑黑甜甜的年糕，当地的年糕是白色的，而这道菜的年糕样子更像马铃薯），与及东坡酥（入口就化，味道极佳，苏东坡不知道和它有什么关系）--味道果然不错，不愧是杭州首屈一指的酒楼。

在状元楼倒是吃到了两道杭州名菜 – 宋嫂鱼羹和东坡肉。所谓的宋嫂鱼羹，相传是宋五嫂所创，因为宋高宗赵构（就是那个害死岳飞的狗皇帝）吃得过瘾而从此闻名。其实味道有点类似鱼翅，并不觉得特别。东坡肉其实就是肥猪肉，因为苏东坡的家人在煮红烧肉时不小心把红烧肉和绍兴酒参杂在一起，就这样弄出了一道名菜。状元楼的东坡肉确实煮得够味，咬下去有软软粘粘的感觉，又不会太腻。

上海则以南翔馒头店的汤包和小笼包吃得最过瘾。南翔馒头店分三层楼，一层比一层贵，要最吃好的一定要到最后一层，不然就算是白来了。那里最低消费是60元，如果不想花太多钱，可以像我们这样叫份套餐点心，也不过80元（S$16），很划算。最特别的还是那里的汤包。汤包上插了根straw，你需要先把包里的汤先吸完，才能继续吃里面的肉馅，感觉很新鲜。（有趣的是，straw上还插了根小旗子“小心烫口”，服务不错呀）

下江南（con't）

英雄_美女_疯和尚

济公，岳飞，武松，白蛇，法海，干将，莫邪…小时候所熟悉的众多历史/神话传说中的人物突然都近在眼前。在灵隐寺见到了清朝济公画像，他那似笑非笑，似哭非哭的有趣表情再次出现在面前。传说附近的飞来峰，正是当年济公为救村民的性命，背起了新娘子拔腿就跑，村民见疯和尚抢新娘，也跟着追了出村子。只听轰隆一声，村子竟被一块不知从何处来的山峰给压平了。村民这才知道是济公救了众人。在灵隐寺的售卖店见到一尊济公喝酒的木雕像，忍不住买了下来，算是对到灵隐寺一游的一点独特纪念。意外的是，在以“南屏晚钟”闻名的净慈寺又有缘再见这位游戏人间的高僧。还记得当年中央电视台拍摄的《济公》有一段火烧大碑楼的桥段，故事地点就在净慈寺。原来济公因在灵隐寺喝酒吃肉，方丈把他赶出寺。济公辗转来到净慈寺住下。一日济公酒醉告诉寺僧寺内将有火灾，寺僧不信。后果然净慈寺发生了大火。济公为重建净慈寺，施法自井内源源不断地变出木材，工匠见木材够了，喊了声停，从此井里就留下了一根木材。（那口井还在，木材却已经看不到了。）到了上海东方明珠又惊奇地见到了济公的踪迹—当然不是济公本人，而是明珠塔旁的熟食摊售卖的济公炒面和济公卷饼。这两道菜就这样成了我的晚餐。在济公卷饼上淋上老板特制的辣椒酱，老板说这是特辣的，还以为她吓唬人，没想到真的够power。不过大冷天吃点辣还是挺过瘾的。

西湖旁葬着两位著名的英雄，一个是被母亲刺上“精忠报国”的南宋抗金元帅岳飞，另一个是打老虎的北宋梁山“贼寇”武松。岳飞埋葬地现已成了岳王庙，供后人凭吊（刚好今年是岳飞诞辰905 周年纪念，来得正是时候）。陪伴着他的除了儿子岳云之墓，就是害死他的秦桧等“四大恶人”铜像（虽明文规定不准再对铜像吐口水，但还是有人对他们phui了一口痰，也不知道是真出于气愤，还是为了自己方便）。庙内著名的还有正殿的“还我河山”匾额（不知谁写的草书），与及老哥当年最喜欢唱的《满江红》词。武松，还以为他只不过是《水浒传》，《金瓶梅》里的虚构人物（对了，他大哥就是卖烧饼的武大郎，到杭州清河仿古街及宋城还可以见到有人扮成武大郎在卖烧饼，而他大嫂就是那本色情小说的女主角潘金莲），原来真有其人，还葬在西湖一隅（不过看来他可能没打过老虎）。

江南以美女著称，以前的ham sup皇帝就是喜欢到江南物色美女，把她们加入后宫的collection。我和阿贤这次下江南当然也要格外留意这里的美女。古代的美女早就不见了，只留下了几个坟墓（注：这里介绍的古代美女其实是名妓两名，阿贤顿时感到兴奋不已，硬剂进人家的香塚，与之合照）。一是南朝苏小小之墓，就在西湖边（现在这座是新建的），另一是唐代苏州的真娘墓，为守节而自尽，葬于虎丘。古代美女只能遥想，现代美女倒是能一窥一二，只不过现在的江南已容纳了各个省份的美女，道地的美女就难以分辨了。加上在全球化的冲击下，已难再见传统的小家碧玉，代之而起的是热裤丝袜的火辣meimei，但却也为这江南水乡增添了新的潮流气息。现代美女当然也不象西施那样躲在深山浣纱，而是集中在了shopping centre 。（如苏州观前街。杭州的白堤是看meimei的另一好去处）

周庄的沈万三与怪楼

听说周庄已变得很commercialised，挤满了旅客，本不该来的，不过因这是姓周的庄园（本公子也姓周，不知这庄园的开辟者周迪功与本公子有无血缘关系？），也为了看看中国古代的Bill Gates沈万三遗迹，最后还是决定来这里玩玩。（阿贤比较感兴趣的是怪楼，事实上怪楼的娱乐效果确实不错）

沈万三是元末明初的有钱佬，甚至比皇帝朱元璋还有钱，明朝南京城建城的费用一半就出自他手笔。朱元璋当然看了不爽，把他贬到云南。这家伙还真厉害，到了云南又利用当地的茶马古道继续捞了一笔，没因此而破产。有关他发财的经过，最普遍的传说是他得了一个聚宝盆，丢1毛进去可以变成1百万（简直是每个人的梦想，所以我也摸了一下）。实际上，他也是靠投资发展农业及各工商业领域等因素而发达的。（我最感兴趣的是他发展海上贸易的经过，他的贸易网甚至已达到东南亚一带。）周庄就是当年沈万三发展其业务的大本营，后来他的子孙后代仍在此定居，既是现在的沈厅。沈厅内还存有一尊沈万三的铜像。有趣的是，沈厅饭厅内还有一幅招财进宝画像，真的是连吃饭也不忘赚钱。现在周庄还有许多以沈万三命名的特产，如万三糕（买了绿豆口味的，不怎么好吃），与及万三蹄（猪脚是也，肥肉多多，汁够浓，挺好吃的，but warning: it's not for the health conscious）。

怪楼本来也只是一间普通民居，经改装后成了个游乐屋，让游客可以在里面变魔术 – 倒置的家具（其实不是本公子我会做stunt，只不过照片倒过来罢了），令人头晕的斜斜的房间，有头没身的“魔术”表演…最令人意外的是一间具有音响效果的房间。每人面对坐着，戴上耳机，仿佛就有无数的孤魂野鬼在你耳边以阴森诡异的语调和你说话，令人忍不住发毛，立体感极佳（以后拍鬼片可以以此做参考，保证效果令人耳目一新）。

博物馆和theme park

不管去哪里旅行，总是屁股痒一定要去看一下当地的博物馆。上海有着相当多的主题博物馆，我们选了上海博物馆和上海市历史陈列馆（在明珠塔底层）。

上海博物馆比较适合对古董文物有兴趣的人。馆内陈设以器物划分，分成铜器，瓷器，雕塑，钱币，玉器，画像等类，展示的都是历代的精品。作为中国著名的博物馆，上博确实是有一定分量的。难得的是，一些展厅还设置了一个角落，向公众展示铜器和瓷器是如何制造的，这在很多博物馆是不常见的。只可惜博物馆仍欠缺了说故事的技巧，不能把文物背后的历史背景更好的带出来。欠缺历史文物知识的人到这里参观可能会觉得乏味。

相比之下，上海历史陈列馆的呈现方法则较有趣，即使对中国历史一窍不通的人也能够很快地对上海的历史有个简单的概念，非常值得一看。这里以各类型的diorama带出上海的社会历史，既没有干巴巴地说明一些难懂的民族大义，也没有太多古旧的文物直直摆在那里，而是通过一个个人物蜡像，建筑，车辆等模型，述说着上海历史的转变，十里洋场的繁荣，甚至是隐藏其中的阴暗面也都一览无遗（图中的按摩女郎和嫖客？！既是一例）。年长的旅客会对这里的怀旧情怀所吸引，年青男女也会对旧上海的实景重建感到好玩。（本人觉得通过diorama呈现历史是很好的一种方式，可惜新加坡国家博物馆已不再以这种方式展示新加坡历史。）

杭州的宋城则是以theme park的形式重建南宋临安的市井繁荣，让游客尽兴之余，又可吸取一点有关宋朝的历史。城内一部分仿制了《清明上河图》的部分场景，搬出了图中的王员外府，还搞了个抛绣球活动让旅客参与。一些店铺还弄出一些宋朝常见的手工绝活，如编草鞋，织布，打铁，酿酒等，当场售卖，娱乐性丰富(我还屁股痒买了一小瓮“满江红”酒，到今天都还没有喝)。城内还有间剧院演出歌舞杂技表演，展现了杭州各历史时期的各个画面 -- 从原始时代，到宋朝宫廷，到岳飞抗击金朝的表演，是很不错的感官体验（价钱也合理，只需S$20，而且还意外得到前排座位）

下江南

火车...又见火车

这次下江南是自12年前踏上神州大地后又一次征程。不同的是，现已不再随旅行社赶鸭子，而是自顾自背包走自己想走的路。更难得的是，此次行程竟有机会不停地坐火车，而且还是3种不同类型的火车。一出上海浦东机场即转搭那300km/h的磁浮列车（还真快，没讲几句话就到站噜）。下了车，又见识了上海的地铁，从龙阳路站到上海南火车站。在柜台拿了张列车行程表，竟发现还有个“耀华路站”。（真“威水一下”，想不到在上海还有一条街以本公子名字命名）。此后驰骋上海，除了去几个个别的景点，基本上就靠地铁代步。比较新加坡地铁，可以发现几样异同：
· 上海地铁车厢较小，每节车厢只有十个座位，一些时候的车还少几节车厢，遇上繁忙时间就变得非常拥挤，其拥挤程度超过新加坡（第一天已见识了）。搭客争先恐后上车的情形，跟新加坡有时还有点相似。
· 都有个收费闸门，都要在上面tap your card，但在上海，你不只tap，还要push a bit， after pushing 不要以为门就开了，你还得记得去推动那旋转把手（第一天到的时候还觉得挺麻烦的）。
· 上海的地铁网络算得上相当四通八达，共分8条线，还在兴建第9条，比新加坡还多。人民广场站还有点象本地的City Hall， 连接三条线，又有地下商场衔接（just like another Citylink，吊诡的是，离这里不远也有Raffles City）。

从上海去苏杭，还是得靠火车，但不是那种慢吞吞的，而是180km/h的子弹火车“和谐号”（今天还在京津铁路推出时速350km的新列车）。去苏州半个钟头就到，去杭州也只是84min（比我到LSC上班还快，搞笑！）。方便是方便，但票要早买，不然到当天很可能被人抢光，到那里还要记得买本最新的列车表选择最佳时间上路。（Mr Eric 那本早过时噜！）

江南的交通还是挺方便的，价钱也合理。在苏州就试了坐巴士， 每个巴士站都有它独特的站名，车将到站时也会播报站名提醒搭客下车（有趣的是，车在拐弯时还提醒搭客扶稳，服务素质不错嘛）。每趟车一律1元（S$0.20，上班的shuttle bus 也是这个价，非常便宜）。的士的价格也不贵，去附近景点也15元左右，远一点半小时路程也不超过20元（S$3-4，在新加坡是找不到这种价钱的啦！唯一较贵的是在上海，一次从火车站去酒店竟达40元）。

过客匆匆

3月23日杭州过客青年旅社：抵达杭州后的歇脚处。这是我旅行第一次住进青年旅社，是一次不同的体验。坐落西子湖畔，离雷锋塔，净慈寺仅几步之遥，这里少了城市的喧嚣，没有酒店的豪华，却多了田野乡间的恬静，让人只想在这里静静地发呆（当然旅程的紧迫不容许我这么做，最终还是沦为“匆匆过客”）。旅社内空间虽小，但大厅内那别致的轮形桌子，桌上的四人打麻将的玩偶，古老的轿子，亲切友善的工作人员，房内的天窗设计（晚上透过这里看月亮还蛮有情调，阿贤却不以为然，认为白天的阳光会晒到他的屁股）……这中间的点点滴滴却为这小旅社增添了趣味感。（看来hostelworld 的好评不是乱盖的，确实值得推荐）。

3月25日：到了上海就碰到酒店问题了，原本在锦江之星上海外滩店订了房间，到了那里却说没有。愤极，怒极，唯有掏腰包花了200多元暂时住进附近的海螺假日酒店（之前这晚的费用已无端在银行户口扣除，真suay啊，看来今年真的会破财）。幸好隔天所订的房间已确认，接下来的住宿总算有着落。

人间_天堂_水乡_佛国

上有天堂，下有苏杭 – 江南的娟丽多彩正源于水，自古便是渔米之乡，水道纵横。从飞机望下上海景色，所见尽是波光粼粼，到了杭州又碰上了西湖这面美人镜子，苏州虎丘更是被水道环绕，剑池中所埋吴王三千剑的传说又为这水乡泽国增添了些许神秘……当然也不忘周庄的小桥流水。

漫游于杨柳依依的西湖湖畔，又或乘小舟泛游湖上，确实是不错的享受（可惜这次没带meimei来，不然效果会更好）。因时间的关系，对西湖这天然美女也只是匆匆一瞥，管它柳浪闻莺，断桥残雪等西湖十景也只一扫而过， 对眼前景致也不觉什么，大概来的不是时候。倒是雷锋夕照和南屏晚钟还有些看头。

雷锋夕照指得是日落雷锋塔的那一刹。游湖那天错过了坐船游三潭印月的机会（隔天总算补上），却有缘赶得上雷锋夕照，赶紧按下快门，把这落日的余晖与塔影捕捉住，不失为此行一大乐事。当初法海镇压白蛇的古老宝塔（实际上是五代吴越王钱俶为王妃所建，原名黄妃塔）已坍塌，现在这座是2002 重建，还被封为AAAAA级旅游景点。塔身是古代建筑模式，塔内却有电梯供游客登塔眺望（这是我有生以来第一次在古塔里坐电梯，感觉有点时空错乱，好像是卫斯理进入了带有先进电脑设备的金字塔一样）。塔基仍保留原塔的遗址， 而塔内则在不同的楼层展示塔的历史，包括钱俶建塔的经过，与及《白蛇传》故事的大型雕塑，四周还有touchscreen 介绍塔的种种故事。在塔顶还可眺望杭州夜景。可惜少了在塔基发掘出土的文物展览（这批文物也不知在哪里）。

南屏晚钟即净慈寺内的那口古钟，因同名歌曲而著名，但出于保护文物钟已不能再敲了。敲钟的任务就这样落到了寒山寺，还好那里还有一口现代铸的钟，给游客敲个够，感受一下“夜伴钟声到客船”的意境。寒山寺周围已发展为一旅游区，还真的搞了几个张继时代的“客船”，旁边搭建几个茅草屋，点上几盏灯，试图营造当年“江枫渔火对愁眠”的气氛。比较有意思的是景区内还有几个展厅介绍古代苏州的漕运史，别具特色。

有点可惜的是没有机会乘小船游江南水乡（anyway，乘小船还是跟meimei坐的好, 跟阿贤坐没什么意思），但在上海乘游轮大船夜游黄埔江，观赏外滩景致，遥想当年十里洋场的繁华，还是挺过瘾的。我们买了船顶的位子，可以到甲板走动，静静地观赏上海外滩夜景，可惜遇上冷天风大，刺骨寒风令人不舒服，不然的话凉风习习是很不错的。

MELAKA X2 (con't)

Jonker Street (aka Jln Hang Jebat/鸡场街/古董街)

这条街不是只卖鸡的，只因谐音的关系，从福建话“市场街”转变而来，以前是个大巴刹，当然也包括卖鸡的。现在这里则以“兵乓球鸡饭”闻名，而且一开还是两大招牌 -- “和记”和“古城”。古城应该是近几年才开的，生意相当大，在马六甲有几间分店。和记历史较悠久（Sunny boy 的 过期"makan sutra"就有记载），于是最终还是选择和记（应该不错吧，外面还有好姨的招牌）。老爸叫了鸡，饭，菜，还想叫“鱼圆”， 后来才发现出糗，“鱼圆”就是饭loh， 只不过远看还真的象鱼圆。鸡的味道不错，辣椒也够味适中，饭团捏成兵乓球形，叉着饭团一口接一口吃进肚子也饶有情趣，但略嫌饭团有点凉，没有热腾腾的感觉。没时间去吃古城的，不知哪家的口味最好。

还是进吃，这条街也以chendol 出名。Jonker88 （大宝小食）尤以chendol 和assam laksa 闻名， 但因前天已在Bibik House 尝到了chendol， 在这里只叫了碗芒果ice kachang， 又因昨晚吃了烤鱼加sambal酱，恐火气上升，喉咙痛就惨了， 于是叫了味道普通的鱼面。看人群熙熙攘攘，大多都叫laksa, chendol， 看来这间店还是有料的。最最奇妙的是，这间外头看似不起眼的小店，竟也是个小型博物馆， 里头有个橱柜展示发掘出水的沉船瓷器。这博物馆还有个名堂，叫Maritime Archaeology Museum (瀚洋考古博物馆)。当时也弄不清这是马六甲新成立的哪个组织，但对我这个沉船迷来说，能把卖当地小吃的小店与博物馆结合在一起，确实新奇，这点连新加坡都没有（国家博物馆虽开始将部分展室转为pub， 但似乎只较迎合喜欢cheong夜店的年轻人士，象这种迎合大众口味，在类似新加坡kopitiam的小吃店里开设个小角落展示马六甲的海洋文明史，这点新加坡确实应该好好地借鉴）。隔天在红屋附近走走，发现这Maritime Archaeology Museum在那也有个展览厅，是为当地的荷兰文化节活动而设的展览，展示荷兰东印度公司VOC与马六甲的关系，展品包括在马六甲河一带出土的荷兰货币。回来后，上网查看，发现这Maritime Archaeology Museum是个非营利的私立组织，以保护及推广马来西亚海底考古文物，历史为主旨，并通过网上的virtual library 让公众认识这批文物，现在有可能在筹划个永久性的展览场地展示文物。Jonker88 当初也是这个组织的办公处之一（see http://maritime.emalacca.com/; http://www.jonker88.com/）。马六甲之前已有个官方经营的Maritime Museum，Maritime Archaeology Museum 的成立可以说为这曾经辉煌一时的国际大港又增添了新的一股文化气息。